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Wine Ought? How and Why Some Breweries Are Stomping Grapes to Diversify

A smattering of craft breweries across the country are making natural wines—and it’s not just an afterthought. Here’s how they’re adding a widely popular beverage while treating its creation in the same way they treat their brewing: with intention.

Industry All Access
Brewer Todd Bujack and cofounder Mitch Ermatinger crushing grapes at Speciation Ales. Photo: Courtesy Speciation Ales.
Brewer Todd Bujack and cofounder Mitch Ermatinger crushing grapes at Speciation Ales. Photo: Courtesy Speciation Ales.

Keenly aware of competition from other beverages, breweries are hustling to get more drinkers into their taprooms. Many of the ways they’re doing it have a certain “if you can’t beat ’em, join ’em” vibe—none more so, perhaps, than winemaking.

Hard seltzers, ciders, spirits, and RTDs, among others, represent new avenues to explore and potentially wider appeal. They can also scratch a creative itch for brewers. Yet, somehow, it’s surprising when makers of the world’s most popular type of alcoholic beverage start dabbling in the second-most popular.

To succeed, the addition shouldn’t be an afterthought. Whether it’s craft beer, wine, other drinks, or even food, customers tend to recognize and reward a commitment to quality, details, and the creative process—and that commitment is arguably necessary to get a lasting pay-off.

For a clearer idea of what’s involved in adding a winemaking program—and what it takes to succeed with it—here are some insights and lessons learned from three different small breweries.

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